Design-Install Photos - Prune/Lace/Shape/Groom Photos - Grafting Photos

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Grafting Photos

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING, SAN DIEGO FRUIT GRAFTING, APRICOT

Photo 1

About five months after grafting(example of ‘topworking’ - a complete graft over)with reliably very productive, quality apricot variety for the San Diego region (not certain on variety, since scion was taken from an old reliably productive high quality fruit tree). Picture taken immediately before cutting out suckers at base[second time of cutting out suckers over that 5 month period(second flush), they shouldn’t have been allowed to grow out] and a little cutting back of the graft growth to reduce limb weight-stress on the graft junctures(too much length-weight relative to the amount of graft juncture healing can make a graft break-off, in the first year particularly). Original apricot variety onto which the Newcastle scion are grafted wasn't productive in this locality. Clairemont, 2008.

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING, SAN DIEGO FRUIT GRAFTING, APRICOT

Photo 2

Same apricot plant. Picture taken after cutting out suckers and a little cutting back on the graft growth to reduce limb weight-stress on the graft junctures at this young stage of graft development. Original apricot variety wasn't productive in this locality. White latex paint used to prevent sun damage to cambium.

San Diego fruit growing, grafting, apricot

Photo 3

Same apricot plant. Closer up view of graft junctures of reliably productive quality apricot variety for the San Diego region, probably ‘Newcastle’ variety. Picture showing 5 months of graft growth - grafted in April, picture taken in September. Original apricot variety wasn't productive in this locality.

san diego fruit growing, san diego fruit grafting

Photo 4

Apricot seedling bush grafted with ‘Midpride’ Peach, in foreground, and a reliably productive neighborhood apricot, behind and to right of peach growth. Peach graft is about 15 years old, very productive, Apricot graft is about 5 years old, good production. Both are quality producers. Irrigated about once per year, in summer, besides rainfall; has deep roots with moderate groundwater access. Gets pruned once or twice per year, depending on amount of growth. Note: most standard fruit trees/bushes, and just about any tree/bush, can be kept dwarfish with appropriate pruning and not overdoing the watering. Picture taken in June 2011. Pt. Loma.

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GRAFTING, SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING

Photo 5

A few different citrus grafted on a small orange tree about.  First photo shows growth 4 weeks after grafting, second photo shows growth a few months later, with Bearss Lime on right side two stumps, Meyer Lemon on left side two stumps, and Oro Blanco grapefruit on the middle two stumps in back. Leafy growth on right side is the original orange tree. Grafted in August 2008. White latex paint to prevent sun damage to cambium. Pt. Loma.  Photo below about two and a half years later, same plant, Spring 2011.   Btw, replaced Oro Blanco with Cocktail Grapefruit (cut off Oro Blanco, grafted on Cocktail) in 2012 or 2013, and it's a milder, more 'beautifully flavored' fruit, less acid,... my client said it was the best fruit she'd ever had in Winter/Spring 2015 when the first Cocktail's ripened.

 

San Diego fruit growing, grafting, Citrus

Photo 6

A few different citrus grafted onto a Bearss lime tree, about five months of graft growth. ‘Honey’ Tangerine on the far left limb, a Navel Orange on the middle-left limb, a Valencia Orange on the middle-right limb; and since the far right limb didn’t take originally when I did the other grafts, apparently due to lesser vitality of the limb, I regrafted it, which is with Eureka Lemon, and Moro Blood Orange. The original grafts were done in April, the re-grafts and the photo were done in September. 2008. Serra Mesa.

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GRAFTING, SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING

Photo 7

Two different grapefruits and one orange, all on the same tree. Marsh grapefruit is the original tree onto which I grafted a Navel Orange, which is the foreground canopy, and Oro Blanco Grapefruit - left side canopy. The remaining original Marsh Grapefruit is the right side canopy, plus being the rootstock limbs of course. Oro Blanco grafted in 1996, Orange grafted in 2000. Marsh planted about 1970. Pt. Loma, 2008.

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING, MULTIPLE AVOCADOS

Photo 8

Three different avocado varieties, including original tree, which is a seedling of a ‘Hass’ fruit, all growing on the same tree. The two varieties I grafted on are ‘Reed’ and ‘Pinkerton’. ‘Pinkerton’ in foreground, ‘Reed’ left upright-growth background, remainder of ‘Hass’ seedling tree on right. All are very productive and high quality, including the ‘Hass’ seedling. With the three varieties, the fruit is mature-pickable for about three-quarters of the year, spring through fall, and potentially nearly year-round. Grafted in 1999, picture taken in September 2008. Serra Mesa.

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING, FIG GRAFTING

Photo 9

Two fig varieties grafted onto a Calimyrna fig. Variety on left limb is the Royale fig, aka Black Madeira fig, a few months after grafting. Variety on right limb is the King fig(aka Honey Delight - W.A. Nursery), one year after grafting. The Calimyrna fig was not producing worthwhile figs because its figs require pollination from Capri figs, along with particular fig pollinating insects called Blastophaga wasps, which are a unique requirement with some fig varieties. Figs sold in nurseries are nearly always varieties that are self-fruitful, and don't require the additional pollination. Pt. Loma.

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING, MULTI GRAFT

Photo 10

 A 4n1 grafted peach, - four different peach varieties bud-grafted onto peach rootstock, from a wholesale propagation nursery, then sold at a retail nursery: Merritt Mountain Nursery in El Cajon.  What I did was initiate the training of the different grafted limbs to grow away from each other, by pulling the branches away from each other and tying them to wood stakes with clear plastic nursery tape.  If this is not done the branches are too close together, and the resulting growth and fruiting performance would not be satisfactory overall.  In either case, the growth will need to be managed by trimming as appropriate for adequate development of each variety.  Some varieties will likely grow faster and some slower, so it's necessary to manage the growth so that one or two, per se, don't take over by overgrowing the others, and vice versa, so that one or two don't get runted into non-performance because of excessive growth by the others.

SAN DIEGO FRUIT GROWING, SAN DIEGO MANGO GROWING

Photo 11

The stock-trunk-plant was planted some years ago, it was a 'Manila' seedling mango, but the fruit quality wasn't good,... so the owner asked me if I could graft on a good/great quality mango that does well here in the San Diego area.   And so I grafted on three scions of a high quality fruiting Kensington Pride seedling from Leo Manuel(who lives in Rancho Penasquitos) in September of 2012.  Two of the three scions took.  Photo at left(which if you click on will enlarge) is in May 2013, - eight months after grafting; photo above is about exactly one year after grafting, 4 months after the younger photo.   Mangos grow fastest during summer,... but being the graft occurred in early fall, and then winter happened, it grew fairly slow for the first 8 months.

Grape grafting San Diego

Photo 12

Here we have a grape vine, of the red-seedless types, such as the Flame variety, growing in Ocean Beach, San Diego.  But the owners called me about it asking why the fruits don't ripen properly, don't fill out well, get disease such as mildew, and similarly the leaves aren't as fresh and healthy looking as can be especially over the hanging trellis/patio cover portion, with some mildew disease also.   This grape does better further inland in warmer/hotter less humid air, such as in the mesa areas and further inland.   So, I recommended that I could graft a couple varieties which I grow in OB here that don't get disease either on the fruit or leaves,... they do great, and have beautifully flavored fruit for fresh eating, not the typical bland grapes in the markets, which I don't find satisfying for food.   Wine?  No thanks, usually, but you can if you like.   One in particular, being the New York Muscat variety, which I've grown successfully, no problems, for 25 years here.   The other variety being Muscat Hamburg which is one of the parents of NY Muscat.   NY Muscat was bred in New York in the early 20th century in a formal grape breeding program.    They both have seeds in the fruit, which is my personal preference, - grapes with seeds, and they are appreciated, not really a bother, though could be for some people,,... and typically the seeds are spit out or are swallowed without much or any chewing of the actual seeds in the slurry of 'grapiness' that you modestly masticate and swallow.   The owners also requested a seedless grape, which would also likely be disease free in growing there, and so I selected Himrod.   So, I grafted them on in late August.   Due to some physical disturbance when the scion had grown about 12" the Himrod scion got knocked off, so only the two Muscat varieties remain.

The photos below show the vine before grafting at top in July. 2nd photo with about 12" of growth on October 4(after a couple grafting attempts).  3rd photo below with about 4 feet of growth after three weeks on October 24th.  4th photo at left thumbnail which you can click on to enlarge on December 18th.

.Showing the grafted scions Himrod at left, New York Muscat in center, and the two scions with brownish new growth to the left and far right being Muscat Hamburg.  All grafted onto Flame or Ruby Seedless grape which is serving as the rootstock here.

 

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